How To Repair Transom On A Fiberglass Boat

Fiberglass Transom Repair

Footstep 1: Earlier start removal:

Accept measurements of all the parts around the transom; fiberglass thickness of exterior skin, plywood thickness, inside transom peel thickness, stringer location, stringer thickness, etc... You lot will want these measurements equally a reference afterwards.
Earlier removing annihilation structural you must take the hull properly supported. Removing stringers and/or a transom with out properly supporting the hull tin can result in a plain-featured or "oil canned" hull. The best support is a bunk trailer with additional blocks under the keel and transom.

Step 2: Gain access to transom skin and core:

The next step is to gain access to the transom so you can remove the rot. Each gunkhole will be a fiddling different, sometimes you will have to cut the deck, the pinnacle cap, side walls or all the higher up, removal of cap is sometimes necessary in gild to attain the entire inside of the transom.
The next step in the removal of the old plywood core and within fiberglass transom skin. You will need access to the entire transom plus at to the lowest degree 12" upward the side and bottom of the gunkhole. If you post pictures at our forum nosotros can advise you on the best places to make these cuts to avoid time consuming fairing piece of work (hiding seams).

Yous must completely remove the old plywood core. A reciprocating saw, grinder, hammer and chisel, flat prybar are good to have. If you have an air compressor, a small air hammer with a wide flat blade is a practiced investment. Be conscientious to not inflict damage to the exterior fiberglass skin.

Once the old plywood and putty are removed, make a template of the transom using cardboard, doorskin or cheap plywood. You will use this template to cutting your transom core and also to draw/cutting the wide fiberglass pieces that will become between the new plywood and outer skin.

Installing the new core:

your new plywood core should be the same total thickness as the original plywood. If you are changing anything almost the blueprint of the transom (higher engine mounts, enclosed transom, bracket, etc...) you may demand to make adjustments to the thickness of the core.
Post details on the forum and we can assist with this. Most powerboat transoms are made by laminating multiple layers of one/two", 5/8" or 3/iv" plywood.
The new core tin can be either made in one piece, and so bonded into the hull, or you may laminate i layer at a time into the hull. Information technology is generally easier to laminate the core outside the boat and bond it into the hull once, merely on very large transoms this may not be possible due to weight and difficultly in handling.
To laminate two pieces of plywood, offset coat the faces of the plywood that will be glued together with un-thickened epoxy resin. This is a thin coat of epoxy, but enough to permit the face of the wood soak upwards a little epoxy. While this epoxy is notwithstanding tacky, mix a batch of epoxy mucilage. Using a notched spreader, utilise fifty-fifty amounts of epoxy glue to each plywood face.
Now clamp the 2 layers together using weights, clamps, or dry out wall screws (temporary, removed after glue cures). Do not apply as well much pressure! Epoxy is gap filling and extremely strong, y'all desire the epoxy to remain between the plywood layers. In one case the epoxy begins to squeeze out the sides evenly it is time to stop the clamping pressure and wipe off backlog epoxy mucilage that squeezed out. Fasco Epoxy Glue

Earlier terminal glassing of core:

The gaps between your new core and the sides/lesser of the hull will need to be filled with putty. Subsequently filling the gap, using the same putty, y'all volition make a fillet all around the joint between the core and the hull. A fillet is a radius of putty that allows fiberglass to brand a turn around an angle. Fiberglass and xc degrees do not fare well together. All inside corners of transom should have a round fillet.

Tabbing unto the hull bottom and sides:

The next pace is the tabbing of the transom cadre to the sides and bottom of the hull. For tabbing, use 1708 Biaxial fiberglass tape. This tape is stronger than traditional woven tape due in function to its fiber orientation (45/45 degrees). Information technology is also very easy to work with, wets out easily, and is epoxy compatible.
Utilize multiple layers of the 17 oz Biaxal tape, the amount will depend on the item gunkhole. Nosotros highly recommend doing the fillet and glass tabbing all in i work session, this is called working "wet on wet" and results in a much improve lamination quality with less make clean upwards and no grinding/sanding between layers! Just exist carefull of heat build upward if your putty is thick in some places. Biaxal Record

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Source: https://fiberglasssupplydepot.com/How-to-Repair-Boat-Transom.html

Posted by: gatlinouldou.blogspot.com

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